Lost and found

Lost and found....12/26/12

So, when we last met, I was enjoying the sights and sounds of Christmas time in Bethlehem.  Today was a blur. A blur of markets, spices, sounds, religions, cultures, food, experiences, and alleyways. I had to look at my pictures to remind me of everything I had done, but when it came down to it, I think I was in an incense induced stupor that I didn’t have many to look at.

This morning I woke up and was antsy to make my way over to Jerusalem. I had a list of things a mile long that I wanted to see and do and felt pressure that I wouldn’t be able to do them with the limited amount of time I had there.

I finished breakfast with Johnny, the elderly Norwegian, and his wife. He was so hard of hearing that he would ask me a question and then keep talking. His wife kept giving me looks like, “you see what I’m dealing with?” Made me laugh. I said my goodbyes and schlepped my bags out to the street trying to retrace my 3AM journey in reverse to the crossing. I made the 5 minute jaunt down the street, but of course not without be offered a taxi ride (20 feet from the station). I meandered through the serpentine exit and out for more taxi fun. I’m pretty sure I got ripped off, but I wasn’t in the mood to fight too much about the price.

Off we went, with my new promised best friend driving me to the Old City of Jerusalem. Although he was overpriced he did manage to speed, maneuver through traffic, bypass security barriers, and get out of the car to yell at some idling cars to move, all to get me to my front door.

I dropped my bags at the former castle, my new home for the next 2 days, the Austrian Hospice. It is located near the Damascus Gate of the Old City which puts it right in the middle of the Arab market. This means you enter and exit from the hustle and bustle of a very busy market and are immediately plunged into a quiet, very clean Austrian atmosphere. Love it!

A view from the Austrian Hospice into the Arab Market.

My first chore was to get the lay of the land so I chose a direction and began to walk, snaking my way through the crowds, absorbing the colors, smells, and energy of the market. In less than 5 minutes I found myself outside the Old City via the Damascus gate...oops, wrong choice. I retraced my steps back through the market and started noticing signs tucked behind hanging purses, shawls, and lanterns pointing to different landmarks. I think I spent a good hour getting lost, then found, then lost again much to the entertainment of the local shop keepers. I finally popped out near Jaffa Gate which is on the West side (opposite of where I started) and thankfully found a tourist info center. Given I had such a good experience at the airport I thought I’d try my luck again.

The Damascus Gate.

Inside I got a map, was told I was out of luck for seeing Dome on the Rock and the mosque (both closed), but I was given excellent directions to the church of the Holy Sepulcher, the Western Wall, and a nice coffee place. First order of business, I needed caffeine STAT.

Love the color of the market!

With my coffee fix curbed I retraced the map and decided I would try for the church of the Holy Sepulcher first. Okay, so it was three rights and then left...or was it two rights and then a left? Crap. My map wasn’t helping me. Maybe the guide book has a better map....that’s a negative. Okay, time to get lost again.

Getting lost isn't so bad when you have great stuff to look at and smell!

I think I spent another hour following signs for the church and going in circles but never finding it. In the meantime, I had offers of guides (for a small fee of course) every time I took out my guidebook. Then, I finally saw a Franciscan monk...maybe he’ll lead me there. So I decided to do Operation Friar and became his shadow (cue Mission Impossible theme song). I wasn’t alone on this mission; it made me feel better knowing I wasn’t the only one who had trouble finding the place. Next thing I know, he made a critical left that I had never seen in my prior expeditions and then we landed in yet another portion of the market that led to a small nondescript entry into Christianity’s holiest place on earth. You’d think they have a bit more signage, but it was clear they had plenty of business.

Some of the "signage" inside the church walls.

I walked in to find people kneeling in prayer and rubbing a huge stone slab on which Jesus’ body was prepared after he was crucified. The devout think that rubbing the slab with oil will bring the spirit of protection to them. My senses were overwhelmed by incense and the scent of rose from the oil. I made my way through the church to observe crowds and more crowds. I can only imagine what this place is like during the summer.

People paying their respects to the anointing slab.

I came upon the rotunda filled with a huge “edicule” which houses the Holy Sepulcher aka where Jesus was entombed. It was hard to take in everything with so many people snapping pictures and crowding in line to go in. I’m not a religious person, although I am very spiritual (more than I let people know), so I decided it wasn’t important to go inside the edicule. I was about to leave the church when something told me to go upstairs.

Tourists entering to view the Holy Sepulcher.

I went up and found a huge shrine on the spot where Jesus was crucified. Again, crowds and a monk serving as a human traffic cop. There was something disparate about this scene: everyone trying to get their turn at touching the stone of the crucifixion while pushing and invading each other’s space in the meantime a Franciscan Monk is literally having to yell and pull people out. I was about to give up as this went against every spiritual bone in my body, but something told me to stay again.

Just I was about to get up to the front the monk said no more. “You’ve got to be freakin’ kidding me, right now?!!” went through my head. Then I turned to see a new Franciscan monk appear in ceremonial garb with his incense making his way through the church stopping at the stations of the cross, praying, and shaking his incense. So, reframe: “How freakin’ cool is this? I get a front row seat of this awesome ceremony.”

Prayer in motion.

Orthodox Christan Priest giving his prayers at the site of the crucifixion.

So after this I felt like I needed to give the church one more time through with a different frame of mind. I made my way back to watch more of the ceremony being held at the edicule and that’s when I heard the Orthodox Christians start their chanting in their section of the church behind me. So beautiful! I just sat there absorbing the incense, the sounds reverberating through the space and through me, seeing this beautiful place. How amazing! Now, I felt like I had seen the church and could leave. I sent out a mental “thank you” to the universe for that experience and made my way outside.

An artist painting his experience in the church.

Okay, back in the market, I decided I needed to give up on the map, but with one last look I made the executive decision I would intentionally get lost and just keep heading in a specific direction. Goal: the Western Wall. This time was easier. Suddenly I popped out of an alleyway and there was an entrance. I joined into the flow of the crowd heading through the security check and found myself on the steps looking down at the wall. Amazing!

The Western Wall.

I watched from afar taking in the scenery. Woman on the right praying in their small section. Men on the left. Outside family and tourists were meandering and taking pictures. Down the stairs I went with a beeline to the woman’s area. It was crowded so I held back, but I took seat on a chair and just sat there. I watched each individual do their own ceremony of prayer paying respect to the wall, one of their holiest places on earth. I watched some become emotional with excitement as they ran up to the wall while others were in tears. I watched observants retreat backwards after their prayers as a sign of respect. Kisses were given to the wall, prayers placed in the cracks, and the spirit of Judaism manifested in each individual. Beautiful!

I sat there for a long time absorbing everything. Appreciating the moment and sending out another “thank you” to the universe for this moment. I could have sat there forever but decided I needed to explore elsewhere which meant I needed plenty of time for getting lost again.

Descending the steps into the Western Wall.

I lost track of time so the major sites were closed. The rest of the evening I explored the market and went onto the rooftops to check out the Old City from above. I looked down into the windows to discover the area of the market I had traced back and forth 10 times today. With that final look at the market below, I felt like I had the lay of the city. It was time to head back to my castle and get ready for some playtime in the mud. Happy and feeling full from my experiences I easily made it home.

One of the shop keepers wanted to take my picture of front of his shop on my way home.