Journey into another land....

I made it! It only took 20+ hours of traveling, but I’m here in Bethlehem.  So before I start, I know my family and some specific friends are probably going to yell at me, roll their eyes, or curse me under their breaths when I describe my midnight adventure. I was purposely being mums the word about it because I knew people would be disgruntled and worried about my safety, but we all know I tend to push the limits.

So we landed late, a little after midnight at Ben Gurion. It took forever to deplane and then pick up my bag. It was after 1AM when I stopped at the info desk to talk to the nice looking man behind the counter that was reminiscent of Office Space with his short sleeved white button down shirt and tie. He was friendly and as soon as I asked for recommendations on how to get to Bethlehem he whipped out a handy dandy info sheet on the activities there for the night and info on the shuttle. The problem was neither of us had any idea of the location of the pick up stop. Off he went in a flurry of google searching like a pro while deftly handling multiple queries in 3 different languages from other customers. I was giggling from his self-deprecating comments and would have been rolling on the floor if he mentioned “TPS reports” and “his stapler.”

Google search complete and a mapped marked with vague directions, he loaded me up with more maps and tourist info and then asked if I was traveling alone. Which I then answered in the affirmative. This prompted him to write down his number and say “I’m here all night. Call if you get lost. We’ll get you there.” I’ve never had anyone, especially at a tourist info office be so helpful and take personal responsibility for a customer. I am liking this place.

Off I went to catch a sherut (shared taxi). I told the driver the neighborhood I needed to go to and that I was supposed to be dropped off in front of an abbey to catch a shuttle. He gave me a look like, “what craziness is this lady up to?” It’s a look I’ve seen many times, usually from men, and usually when I’m traveling and doing something a bit unorthodox. “The lady, you are crazy” look transcends all languages and cultures. My response: a smile and look that says “trust me, we’ll get through this”.

We finally left the airport at 2AM which gave me the nocturnal scenic tour of Jerusalem. By 2:45 I was the last passenger left and the driver asked where we were going again. I relayed the plan that the tourist info officer had told me which was to drop me off at an abbey right near the Bethlehem checkpoint and I was supposed to catch a shuttle to take me over.

My ultimate goal was to get there to catch some of the midnight mass festivities, but at this point I just wanted to make it over without problems. Here’s what followed:

“So you really going to Bethlehem.”
“Yes, I was supposed to go to the other place to catch the shuttle over.”
“I see.” Pregnant pause. This is the point where my brain is starting to click into plan B and C mode if he won’t drop me there, but also realizing my phone is almost dead, I don’t have a decent map, and I don’t speak the language.
“No, no shuttle.”
“They said it’s running all night.”
“I take to you to Bethlehem”
“Okay, but I thought you can’t go into Bethlehem.”
“No, I don’t go to Bethlehem.”
Confused, “okay so where are going to take me?”
“I take you to checkpoint. You don’t know if shuttle for sure, so I take you to checkpoint. Where you going after Bethlehem?”
“Jerusalem.”
“How long you here?”
“Twelve days.”
“Not long enough. You need at least a month.”
“I know, but I only have 12 days.”
“Where else you going?”
“I’m going north to Tzfat for my birthday.”
“Tzfat, why Tzfat?” with mild disdain.
“Because my friend said it’s beautiful.”
Pause.
“It is. You go to Eilat?”
“No, I don’t have time.”
“You got to Eilat, then fly to Tel Aviv. You have time. You will like it.” At this point I’m thinking, can we just get me into Bethlehem, then we can talk about Eilat.
“Where you from? Europe?”
“Arizona, the U.S.”
“I never been, but I hear it’s nice. I take you to checkpoint. You make it to Bethlehem okay. If not, I give you my number, you call me. I will plan your trip.”
Wow, it’s only been 3 hours in this country and already I got digits from two people and a personal trip advisor. This place is awesome!

Off I went from the sherut, while he waited and watched to see if I found my way to the entrance to the checkpoint. I did, after some guidance from two local taxi drivers who of course kindly offered their services at a discounted rate (that’s sarcasm if you couldn’t tell). I walked through the gate into Bethlehem at 3AM (against Gary’s advice, you can yell at me later). To give you an idea, it reminded me of coming home to the 180th subway station in the  Bronx late at night, except it didn’t have the lovely eau du pee. As I walked through, people were spilling out from their adventures in manger square sending me well wishes on their way out. I called the owner of my guest house Johnny who quickly made his way down to pick me up.

I felt terrible, he’d been up waiting for me. I was apologizing profusely as I walked to the car. He stopped me, held out his hand, and said, “First, nice to meet you. I’m Johnny.” My heart warmed.
“Nice to me you as well. Thank you for coming to get me so late at night.”
“It is my pleasure. I was waiting at the church.”
“Are there still people there?”
“Most are leaving, but do you want to see it? I will take you.”
“Really? I would love that!”

It's 3AM and it's still bustling.

Who are these people that are so friendly, even at three in the morning? Any hints of fatigue immediately vanished. Off we went cruising through the lit streets of Bethlehem into the old city where the Church of the Nativity  and manger square reside. He deftly maneuvered security barriers and got past guards to bring me right into the center of the square where the huge Christmas tree donated from Europe sat central decorated in lights and ornaments. People were still gathering and celebrating. Vendors were still proffering tea, coffee, and desserts. Everyone seemed to be smiling. I was so happy I made it. Late, but I made it!

Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night!

Tired but so happy!