Letting go

July 7
I know there were probably a few WTFs? that came after my last post. I’m sure I gave my sister a nice panic attack. I know most of you are thinking, Cuba, but I thought we can’t go there. Partially true. Thanks to my ‘Professional’ status as a doctora I can come here to do research. You can also come if you are a journalist of some sort doing an article (we’ll count my blog), or if you are here on an educational trip through a university or group, or if you have family. I think there are a couple of other ways in, but those are the highlights for the legal routes that don’t require paperwork. There are also the other non-kosher ways of going through a third country that is Cuba friendly. Cayman is one of those, so is Jamaica and numerous countries in Central and South America.

After I came to Cayman I found out how common it is for US ex-pats to go off to Cuba for a weekend trip. It’s a 40 minute flight into another world. Why wouldn’t you?

Alright, so now that we have my legal status squared away you’re probably wondering what research I’m doing. First, Cuba has some of the best healthcare and healthcare education around despite the limitations. I was put into contact with people who do what we refer to in the US as integrative medicine but here it is just medicine. Because of sanctions and very limited supply to affordable pharmaceuticals Cuba has one of the largest botanical industries in healthcare with dedicated farms, distributers, and dispensaries. They also somehow manage to provide a fully competent allopathic medical education along with education in “alternative” medicine techniques. Here the two go hand-in-hand. I was curious to see how this was done.

Excited about the opportunities I made some arrangements that promptly fell through the day I came here. Having just made a pact with my friend, Charlie, that for the next 30 days we were going to let go of expectations and allow the Universe to manifest wonderful opportunities for us, I decided to trust, have faith and let go. It would work out.

I said good bye to my wonderful hosts and new friends, Toufic and to Jenni. I was feeling anxious about my plans or lack there of in the airport. I was nervous about everything working out...there it was, the expectation. As I walked out the door to the plane I told myself to let go and trust. So I did. I arrived at the last part of the gangway right before getting on the plane and I felt it, that bubbling excitement, joy, and light that makes me want to giggle and laugh like I am five. It always happens right before I get onto plane  when I’m headed to a fantastic adventures. Okay, now I could really let go.

Cayman Airport was packed!

I arrived in Havana with a new found sense of calm. I didn’t have Cuban pesos, I didn’t have a ride, much less know where I was going, my cell phone didn’t work, but I’m letting go of control and joining the flow (no I’m not on drugs).

The view on entry

Feeling oddly at peace and in my own little world of travel bliss an American voice starting talking to me, “You been here before?” I turned to find, Jeff, a US citizen who had been living in the Caymans for the past year and whose company had just shut down for the season so he decided to take off to Cuba for the hell of it.
“Nope.”
“Oh, you seemed like you knew what you were doing.”
“Just lots of practice in airports.” I said with a smile.
We chatted for a bit waiting to get through the health screen check. As we talked a Norwegian fellow started chatting with us too. Together we made our way to the baggage area and waited for what seemed like hours to get our bags. We were definitely living a different pace here.

It turned out that Jeff had no plans, no car, no guidebook. Robert, the Norwegian, had a place, a guide, and a car. Now all we needed was a well traveled red head who speaks Spanish and is a good with a map.....I wonder where we find one of those?

Off we went together in search of a money exchange (ATM’s don’t work here and US credit cards definitely don’t work) and his car rental place. Thirty minutes later we were in business with Cuban pesos and a nice jalopy of a car. But never fear, we were shown where the spare tire and the hub lock were just in case.

Here!

Appointing myself as the navigator (as every good woman does) I was handed the google map instructions to find that they were in Norwegian. Robert decided that he knew where he was going and was following the signs. Now I had to walk the fine line that every woman walks in these situations, the male ego vs getting lost. I started the mental countdown timer until I needed to step in to make sure we didn’t get too lost. Thankfully, it didn’t take long for him to realize we weren’t seeing the blue ocean like we were supposed to. I popped out his lonely planet guide and started skimming maps, street signs whizzing past us, and local landmarks. Bingo, we were too far East. A course correction later we were on the right path, we had found the ocean and were almost to my new home for the next couple of days.

I arrived at a soft pink high rise building and said good bye and buena suerte to my fellow travelers. Greeted by local Cubanos I was taken up to the 13th floor where Casa Lilly, a casa particulare, is located. The elevator door opened up to a huge apartment and to Lilly, the owner. This young beautiful Cuban woman welcomed me warmly and gave me a tour with a grand finale of the wrap around balcony that neither words nor pictures do justice. Breathtaking views of the ocean, the Vedado district, and parts of Cuba I have yet to know. I did a little video for you to look at, sorry about the jumpiness.

I enjoyed the afternoon sipping away my beer, reading my book, listening to the music of the city life below, and chatting with Lilly and her father, Romano. This was the perfect way to settle in. The Universe does provide indeed. :)

The view is amazing!

Me gusta la cerveza local!

Lilly had given me recs for great places to eat in the neighborhood. I decided to go for a walk first and get the lay of the land. Off to the malecon I went. I passed parks filled with couples sitting, chatting, kissing. I passed abandoned fields where people played pickup soccer games. I came to the ocean lined malecon to find a crowd.

Disco and carnival on the beach

I sat on the large wall watching the fisherman, the runners, and looking at the crowd realizing this was a normal Sunday afternoon. This is where life happened. I could hear music in the distance so of course I followed. Just a few hundred meters down the road people were dancing in the street to the music being played at a festival. Love it! I watched little babies bouncing to the beat while mom and dad danced right next to them. People seemed happy. They lived at a different pace, a different beat. I don’t know why but I didn’t expect this.

The Malecon life

Fishing off of the Malecon

My hunger was starting to predominate so I retraced my steps to find the restaurant Lilly had recommended. Tucked away in a house off the corner this place had fresh fish prepared in all sorts of yumminess. I opted for the enchilada de mariscos and a mojito. I watched as the chef meticulously prepared each order. I could get used to this....nothing sexier than a man who knows his way around a kitchen. For dessert, guavas with cheese. I know it doesn’t sound great, but it was perfection!

I left feeling happy, with a full stomach, and frankly ready for some rest. It was already late and I was planning a long fun day tomorrow.

Happiness